Fashionweek’s overriding theme of happiness had two distinct components – a lighthearted, girlish glee and a mature, womanly serenity. Joe Fresh literally opened the week with glee on Monday night – from the logo spelled out in flowers at the top of the runway to the super-bright knee high athletic socks sported by the mod els, the cheap and chic collection ushered in a breath of fresh spring air that would blow through the entire week.

It also set the design tone for the week – whether because of a need for mass reproduction or a reassurance of designer Joe Mimram’s sleek esthetic, shift dresses in athletic stripes and white cotton were the best looks on the runway. But just because it’s cheaper to make simple pieces doesn’t mean that detail is all but forgotten; bows and gathers boosted neckli nes, a nautical grouping featured contrast piping, a number of simple white blouses were bolstered by wee ruffles and even plain sunhats were given a subtle sparkle.

A sexual, animalistic sense of glee was key to Ginch Gonch’s first-ever showing at Fashionweek. The Vancouver-based cheeky underwear brand played with the idea of jungle fever, and a Natio nal Geographic-inspired opening film told us that “we are all animals.”

If we’re all animals, most of us probably aren’t having as much fun in the wild as the dancers and models that took to the stage in wild hair and mud-streaked bodies wearing cute retr o thongs and briefs emblazoned with1970s-inspired eagle motifs and frisky animal characters. While the styling and music were supercharged with energy, the length of the show did lead to audienc e lethargy – an issue for many lingerie shows, no matter how ready the label is to pounce.

All of the color and energy of this spring season made it an ideal moment to present looks from some of the best Indian designers, courtesy of Indiva, a recently opened department store on tony B loor Street West. Unusual pairings such as forest green and lemon, or fuchsia and brown, as well as exuberant, 1960s-inspired prints were a feast for the eyes, especially when used in pieces tha t were touched with fabulous details such as patterned crinolines, embroidered patterns, fringed edges and tone-on-tone appliqués. What made the show truly work, however, is that while tr aditional subcontinent styles (saris) were featured, the five designers made the nation’s love affair with color and ornamentation very modern and wearable.

A different kind of ornamental glee was present in Ula, designed by veteran Ula Zukowska. It is always a treat to see how her utilitarian, avant-garde esthetic is adapted to the feel of the seas on – and this spring she’s outdone herself with intricate, almost indescribable details. Pleated, gathered culottes, sheer overlays, shimmering rainbow fabric inserts and curving sea ms are just a few of the techniques that necessitate a closer inspection to fully understand, and appreciate. Her palette may have been beiges, greys and black, but the muted tones served to hig hlight her innovative cuts and concepts.